Garment Patterning

Software/Medium: Paper drafting, Draping, Tape patterning
Reference/Source: N/A
Project Type: Independent (solo)

Patterning is an important part of all of my fabric cosplays and sewing projects. I draft my cosplay patterns from scratch using a variety of methods. For basic shapes, I’ll use previously-drafted base patterns and redraw seams and make modifications. For more complex designs, I’ll drape fabric on a form and then do several fittings. For smaller fitted pieces, specifically bodices and corsets, I’ll draft the pattern flat using mathematical methods.

For my historical garments, I will sometimes reference pattern sketches from historical costuming books or extant publications – these are always basic shapes (and one-size-fits-all) so still require a fair bit of patterning work.

I’ll often do several scrap fabric mockups before cutting the final textile (in fabric with similar weight/properties) in order to adjust the fit and make tweaks to the silhouette. I pay special attention to accuracy to the source material, so I’ll take photos of my mockups to compare to the reference images. I’ll also test mobility (can I move my arms?) and durability (will a seam tear if I move my arms too much?) and adjust accordingly.

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